In this collapsing capitalist hellscape, getting time in the wild is so critical to our mental and physical health. But since we need to follow Leave No Trace, and can't just build a shelter wherever we camp, unfortunately we have to spend money to go camping.
In an ideal world, we would borrow what we don't have, buy used what we can't borrow and our last resort should be buying new. Scarcity has us all in a choke hold, and it can be difficult to convince a friend to let us borrow the tent they shelled out their bonus on.
Buying used: DO NOT buy a used tent unless you can be guaranteed it was stored in a climate controlled space (not the attic or garage) Otherwise it is essentially useless. The waterproofing disintegrates in high heat. I would only consider buying a used tent from a friend who I know cared for it well, or that I could inspect thoroughly. ANY stickiness on the floor or rainfly is indicative of improper storage. DO NOT buy a sleeping bag unless you are guaranteed it was stored loosely (not in it's stuff sack) and if it was down, that it was laundered properly with soap specifically made for down sleeping bags. More info on buying used HERE
Tents
Things to look for:
- aluminum poles (avoid fiberglass)
- rain fly that goes all the way to the ground
- as much mesh as possible in the inner tent for breathability
- no-see-um proof mesh
- below 45" height for beach camping, or anywhere that experiences high winds (like the desert and plains)
- Free standing tents (like dome tents) are WAY easier for beginners to set up, and more forgiving in environments with really hard surfaces like rock
- The more vertical the sides of the tent, the roomier it will feel with the same floor space
ALPS mountaineering Felis 4 roomier simple tent for drive-in camping. Taller than backpacking tent, but still short enough for beach camping
Nature Hike Mongar 2 person tent Super budget tent with great reviews
Nature Hike Cloud Up 2 tent- inexpensive but still quality tent, small and light enough for backpacking (a friend of mine just got this one)
Tent Set-up and Care
Don't fold and roll your tent! Check out this post + video for the fastest, cleanest and most secure way to set up your tent: HERE
Store your tent in a climate controlled space! Don't put it in the attic or in your garage or it'll be ruined in a year!
A word about tarps.....
I love a tarp. I actually sleep under a tarp when I backpack instead of bringing a tent, but it takes some skill to set up in a range of situations. This is my tarp set up on a windy night while leading a backpacking trip in Roan Highlands in 2024. If you're in an area without a lot of bugs and you're good at tarp rigging you can avoid buying a tent altogether.
I also ALWAYS bring a spare tarp on camping/backpacking trips with friends in case there is bad weather. You can't cook in your tent, so it is nice to be able to create an area outside of your tent that you can cook and hang out in on rainy days. I definitely recommend buying an inexpensive tarp, some rope, and practicing the bowline and taught line hitch with your tarp before your trip.
I teach a tarp rigging class in Raleigh, NC through my company, Wayfinder Outdors: Tarps + Shelters Class
Notes on tent stakes...
Do yourself a favor and get tent stakes for the type of ground you'll be camping on. The hook shaped aluminum stakes your tent likely came with are AWFUL. If you are camping at the beach or in the desert, please please invest in sand stakes like these. I've tried lots of sand stakes, and those are the only ones that work. For other conditions (like normal forests) I recommend the MSR Groundhog stakes, or these knockoffs that work just as well for a fraction of the cost.
Sleeping pads
A sleeping pad is CRITICAL. Insulation works by trapping air within the material and slowing the transfer of heat. When you lay in your sleeping bag, the insulation under your body is flattened, thus removing all ability to slow or stop heat transfer. You will get cold in a sleeping bag without a sleeping pad. Plus, sleeping on the ground is not very comfortable and difficult for most people to get a good night's sleep.
How sleeping pads work: Most camping and backpacking sleeping pads have some kind of insulated core, that is then held open by air. When the pad is deflated, the insulation has no air pockets and therefore does not work. Insulation types include foam, synthetic down and down. DO NOT buy a pad that is just an air mattress.
R value is a measurement of insulating ability. Anything over 4 is generally safe for cool to cold conditions outside of really extreme cold like the arctic or mountaineering. 2-3 is for summer.
Self-inflating refers to pads where the core is foam. When you open the valve, the foam naturally expands, but my experience is that they still need a couple of breaths to be firm enough. These pads tend to be more comfy and usually a higher R value but are bulkier and heavier. I use them car camping and sea kayaking, but generally find them too bulky for backpacking.
Non-Self Inflating: These have some kind of insulating material that is similar to what might be in an insulated jacket or sleeping bag, and usually often a layer of mylar to reflect heat. They can be comfortable, but sometimes have an 'air mattress' feel where they feel bouncy. Be VERY careful with these as the R values range widely from just air (no insulation, R value essentially 0) all the way up to 6. These are completely useless if they have a leak. The achilles heel of these pads are the glue that holds the pad together and the thin material that the pad is made of. If the glue fails, or the cover gets a leak, the pad is useless. Only buy from trusted brands or pads with great reviews.
Super comfy, only for drive-in campsites: PineHike 4" Memory Foam Self Inflating Pad
REI Trailmade Sleepin Pad - middle of the road budget self inflating sleeping pad, comfy, good for range of conditions, still only around 2” thick
Nature hike Ultralight Insulated Sleeping Pad- 3” thick, high r value backpacking sleeping pad. More delicate than self inflating pads, but packs smaller and lighter. I personally bought this one recently.
Least expensive, lightest, also least comfortable, only for warm conditions: Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad I have this one, and I've slept on it. If you are not accustomed to sleeping on a hard surface, this might take you a week to get used to, if you ever get used to it. Hard for side sleepers. A great option for additional insulation and protection under another pad during the winter.
Sleeping bags
Insulation: Sleeping bags are filled with one of two types of insulation: down or synthetic. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Assume we make 2 of the EXACT same dimension sleeping bag, but one is insulated with down and the other synthetic. The down bag will usually weigh less and pack smaller, but cost more, and be less insulating if the bag gets damp. The synthetic bag will weigh more, not pack down as small, but will keep more of its ability to insulate if it gets damp, and will cost less.
More on Down: Not all down is created equal. Down is rated by its ability to fill a certain volume. The higher quality down takes less down to fill a specific amount of space, so a bag made from that down will weigh less while being just as warm. This is described as fill power. The higher the number, the higher the quality down. The highest I have seen is 900 fill power, and the lowest is 600. Two sleeping bags made to the exact same dimensions where one is filled with 900 fill power and the other with 600, the 900 fill power bag will weigh less, pack smaller and be more expensive. It is not unusual for me to see a 600 fill power bag for 20 degree weather that weighs more than its synthetic counterpart...which leads us to synthetic.
Caring for down: Down is essentially a bunch of feathers that are stuffed into sewn channels in the bag that are called baffles. It is really important that if you need to wash your bag, you do it properly. Water and detergent makes down stick together and can ruin your bag, so it is important to wash your bag in a front loading machine with non-detergent soap made specifically for down. ALL sleeping bags should be stored loosely and not compressed, away from high heat and humidity.
Synthetic Insulation: Not all synthetic insulation is created equal. Some companies have their own proprietary synthetic insulation that is quite incredible (Marmot for example) and others make what is cheap but works- and is usually bulkier or heavier. Some companies decide to avoid making their own insulation entirely and use brand name insulation like Primaloft or Climashield.
Caring for synthetic: All sleeping bags should be stored un-compressed in a place protected from high heat and humidity. Many synthetic bags can be washed in a front-loader with normal detergent but not all, so it is important to check the label on the bag or contact the manufacturer.
Shape: Mummy bags pack down smaller and are lighter, less comfy, but better for cold weather. They do a better job at holding in heat while weighing less. Rectangular bags are more comfortable, but require more fill weight (more insulation) to achieve the same temperature as a mummy bag because our body has to work to heat up the empty space inside the bag. So, they are heavier and bulkier, and not as warm at the same weight as a mummy bag.
Stoves
Large car camping stove, cook real food, can use kitchen pots and pans: Coleman Triton 2 Burner Camp Stove
Ultralight backpacking stove - ultralight, only for boiling water for instant meals. Not very windproof
Evolved supply 750ml pot - my favorite pot, ultralight, for use on a stove or a fire
TOAKS Titanium pot with bail handle- if you have prime and don’t wanna pay for shipping for a titanium pot that you can use on a stove or a fire. This is similar to, but not as good as, the Evolved Supply pot




